The normal city

What is hard to see and to accept in such a large city that has such a large, almost mythological image for visitors is that it is a city filled with people who are, well, just living. They do normal things like stop on the street to talk to friend, or take their children to work or to daycare. They do not really notice the visitors, and rarely, I think, do the visitors really notice them.

The "city of love"

Paris is sometimes seen as the "city of love" and certainly it is romantic. And that feeling of romance is most noticeable near the river. Lovers stroll, couples walk and hold hands and cuddle in the nooks and crannies of the walled river bank. Happy? Probably.

Paris is a place but it is also so identified with its people. The cafe culture is dominant and people watching at these cafes is almost sublime. I saw this man reading the paper every morning I was there--he was carefully marking the paper, perhaps looking for a job or for a place to live, perhaps for the best thing to bet on, but he was there every morning at 8 in the morning, same chair, same pose.

I of course went to the Louvre and the Rodin museum, and enjoyed both, but this shot of a man outside of the Louve in the old tile works garden spoke to me almost as much as any of the statues or paintings. What a great place that allows you to be so contemplative and relaxed, and thoughtful, all in such great space and light.

I took this photo in the neighborhood near the Sacre Couer in the montemarte area. Danielle, an absolutely beautiful young woman from Germany was getting her portrait done by one of the many street artists, in part because her father had his portrait done 20 years before in the same place. She was working in Paris for several months, and was, like me, being a tourist.

The accordionist would switch from Eastern European folk tunes to Bach to waltzes to Gershwin, so quickly it was almost disconcerting. He didn't want to me to take his photo at first, and it wasn't until I contributed enough coins to his hat that he said OK...for the record, to take his photo required about a $10.00 contribution, and then he posed willingly. Commerce rules the arts...

Left Bank

The Seine divides the city and ties it together, and it is in many ways the heartbeat of Paris. The idea of being a bookseller or even a browser at the many small shops on along the river has been a romantic ideal of the city for decades. Countless writers, famous or not, have browsed these stands, and millions of visitors have looked for that perfect treasure from Paris. Or, the cheapest "metal" Eiffel Tower trinket or that unique, except for the millions of others just like it, Le Chat Noir poster. Here are two of the more interesting vendors. I do want their jobs...

Paris People

People, Places, and Things

I have been remiss in not posting anything, any “results” or stories from Paris. Lots of reasons for this, I suppose. I came back to a friendly virus that wiped me out for most of a week, then had company, and despite the fact that I don’t really have a job, I do have work things, a lot of them lately, to do in my remaining time at WCC. I know, excuses, excuses, excuses… I suppose that continuing uncertainty and in some instances even certainty has slowed the process. I have said this before about blogging and while some have cheered for this and others have scolded me for this, blogging is so self-indulgent. Perhaps as I simplify my life I feel this more intensely. Or, perhaps it is because I have been seeing and reading Russian writers, and their focus on the simple belief that nothing really matters because either you die or you are insignificant in the scheme of things. I am fighting that sentiment—I am, of course, Mr. Sunshine, (Dr. Sunshine?) and my glass is half-full!!! And besides, while the commentary that I will share is less than important, some do, I hope, want to at least see the pictures.

I know, that was self-indulgent in its entirety—I will move on and in three pieces, one for people one for places, and one for things, and try and give a snapshot of my experiences. For what it is worth, or really, what they are worth, I am making the photos as big as possible on this site. If you are interested in or want to purchase larger prints, let me know—I think these will print any size up to 30X40 or so.

People

Parisians get a bad rap as rude “American-haters.” I did not personally talk to every Parisian, but I rarely if ever felt this from the people I interacted with during my week in Paris. I think that there were several reasons for this. First was my atrocious French that I trotted out at any occasion. Honestly, it’s bad! Twice, people actually laughed and begged, “English, English, please speak English.” At one Thai restaurant, I stumbled through ordering Thai food in French, and must have ordered some unseemly combo. The waitress, who was at least tri-lingual, said, “no, no, no,” and went and got me the menu in English asked me to try again! I wonder what I ordered the first time? But I tried, and it was, as every guidebook said, appreciated. As was greeting people that you might interact with “Bonjour” etc. But they were wonderful, from the street sweeper who asked about my cameras to the absolutely adorable young woman who curtsied when I said “bonjour” to her after I bought my croissant. OK, bought my croissants from her.

The second reason is that as much as Parisians might not like to admit it, they do need Americans. I would say that historically that was the case, but let’s not bring up old history like WWI, WWII. etc. (Is saying “old history” redundant?) Americans flock to Paris with their money and their over sized, well, their over sized every things, fill the little cafes and shops. Paris depends on this. And the number of visitors is down and that is very easy to see. Never once, no matter the time of day or place, did I have to wait to eat or drink. Not at 1PM next to Notre Dame, or at 8PM in the Latin Quarter. (though I didn’t eat where the Obamas ate. I didn’t spend even close to that to eat all week). So I suspect that Parisians and Paris itself was a bit more willing to put on the happy face and listen to horrific French from people who take up more space than they should.

The last reason is that while I visited a few of the Kodak Moment touristy spots, I did not take the busman’s tour of Paris. Many who visit stay in the single digit arrondissments, but I ranged further afield, and actually was in either 15 or 16 of the districts, most of them away from the city center. In these areas, I think I encountered more of a “are you lost” curiosity than any rudeness. And, I might say, the food was better, and cheaper, and served with more flair than in the touristy hot spots.

Perhaps my most interesting observation came from seeing more of the city, either intentionally, or, more likely, because I was hopelessly lost. The face of or any expectation of what a Frenchwoman/man/person is or would be was far different than you might expect, especially further from the formal city. I have spent months in London, and recognize that major city as extremely multicultural. Former colonists and people from the Commonwealth have, some say, taken over London. I think that might be a bit extreme, but certainly you are more likely to see Black family (or a SE Asian, or or or…) in London than Seattle, or about 50 times more often than say Columbus. Many of the neighborhoods that I visited in Paris were just like some of the neighborhoods in London, and they were incredibly diverse. Though England was known as the colonial power of note, it is important to remember that France had a huge empire, and much of it was in Africa and the Middle East. Believe me, in most areas I was in, it was far more like to see people in traditional African garb than in Channel or Dior.

This might be related to the cultural changes and diversity, but I was struck by how conservatively the French, of any color or stripe, dress. It’s not like I wear mesh sleeveless t-shirts with gold chains, but I realized that I dressed positively flamboyantly. You know, by wearing say, a blue shirt and one day, gasp, a red shirt. You simply don’t see that. Black and dark gray are the colors for all. Women dressed even more noticeably conservatively. Honestly, I see more skin, though I am never really looking, on students on cloudy rainy days on campus than I saw on a 75-degree sunny day in Paris. My friend Steve kept me apprised on the state of undress/clothing styles in Prague (again, I never noticed) and it is a world of difference between the two capitals. I find that an interesting thing, as France has such a different reputation than this. Even on the fashionable streets, you never saw any amount of skin, no bellies, little cleavage, and no tattoos. Even where I stayed, near two colleges (though one was a church school…) I never saw what we see on any college campus. Well, except perhaps in Utah.

Generally, I found the people interesting and kind, and open as much as my miserable French allowed. I found some great pictures of people that moved me, at least enough to take their pictures. I am not sure that I took a definitive portrait of what a “French-type” person be like. Very likely I was not inclusive enough in my viewfinder. Still, I hope that you enjoy these snapshots of Parisian people/life.

the first of many...

I still haven't figured out how to make this vertical, but you get the idea..more to come!

So long from Paris...

It is almost 8 here and I am winding down from a great day-lots of stories, but here is one that tells you how great this place is...

I was wandering around the Latin Quarter and ended up at Notre Dame one more time. I knew that they were putting up an exhibition tent in the square in front of the cathedral but I had no idea what it was for-it turns out there were two things going on. To my delight and enjoyment, there was a bakery contest and people got to eat the leftovers. Can you say warm bagguette with Nutella? Wonderful.

No one will believe the other thing that was going on, but I swear it was true. There was a beach volleyball tourney going on. Mens and Womens. Really-less than 50 yards (oops, meters) from the front door of Notre Dame they were playing beach volleyball. Whqt would the Pope say? Maybe they played that in his youth "sports club" so its ok... Does it ever get any better than this? It was so hard not to just assume my normal persona as a six four beach volleyball player, but I realized that I would get sand in my Nutella and it was raining...

Tomorrow is a travel day, but more (and pictures) when I get back.

End of the day...

It is the end of the day, and I am calling it. I finished the day with a meal of crusty bread and what my friend keeps calling stinky cheese. It really wasnt THAT stinky but it was perfect for eating with wine from a barrel that was pourd into a jug of sorts. If nothing else, this trip has reminded me of one word: Simplify. That is my word for the day.

More soon...

hey, again

Let's see how this works--a real US keyboard! I still can't type all that well but it does make things go faster...

I was up early today to wander around, and was lost, so I took a break and will write for a few moments. I am tired--last night I rolled in about midnight, and it was after 1AM by the time that I found my bed. I was a tourist last night, and went to see the Eifel Tower and other sites that you need to see at night. After a rainy wet day, it cleared off and it turned into a perfectly clear (and very cold) night. A great sunset to frame the tower...at least one more picture that might be worth printing. Just as good, though, was the group of back-lit folks waiting for the sun to go down and sharing a bottle of wine. Fun. Wish I had a bottle of wine and people with me to share it with.

While waiting for the sun to set and the light show to begin, I chatted for about an hour with a very nice man from Sweden. He was a lorry driver, and travels all over Europe. He was in Paris for a few days waiting for his load, so he drove his lorry/semi to the tower for pictures. You have to admire anyone who would drive an 18 wheeler in Paris at all, but to take it to a tourist spot just for pictures makes him a hero. It was fun to hear about Stockholm and the places he has been and will be going to. One funny thing was incredible number of people who asked me to take their photos in front of the tower. I was in a good spot, but I think that I assumed that I knew what I was doing because my camera was big and on a tripod. I bet I took 25 pictures. And some of them might even turn out! I should have charged them a few euros each.

I will write more about the state of the economy later but it is interesting. As I mentioned, there are lots of empty tables at prime times and prime places. That is odd, I think, even for this time of the year. I have also noticed lots of empty storefronts, in distant neighborhoods that I have explored but also next to Notre Dame and places like that. That indicates some kind of a problem or at least an effect of the economic downturn. But last night, since I missed dinner, I stopped at McDonalds (OK, I am sorry--it was late, I was tired, I was hungry, etc) and got some fries. I looked hard at the menu, and was amazed to see some super-sized meals that sell for more than 8 Euros. That is almost $11.00 US, and a normal diner, from my unscientific survey of waiting in line and watching, was still spending about 7 Euros on their late night snack. I wonder how long the line would be at McDonalds if every meal cost almost $10.00? Just for the record, McDonald's fries are the same everywhere--except here you can get mayoinaisse for them!

I have taken lots of photos, in the hope, as always, that even a blind robin gets a worm once in a while. I have not wowed myself, but I suspect that my photos at this point are a bit better than the average tourist. As a friend of mine would say, that is because I have a good camera. True, but I hope that there is a tiny bit more than that. I think that I can remember about a dozen shots that make the trip worth it. Photography has changes so much since I was here last, and it is very different than Praha. For sure, there are fewer Kodak/Fuji/Agfa picture spots in Prague than there are in Paris. And the prevalance of digital cameras has changed it so much. I see people shooting and then chimping (looking at their digital monitors to see if they got the shot) all the time. I wonder how many of these photos will actually be printed or if they will remain on the memory card with their Christmas and Easter pictures from 2008. I am sure that in some homes across the world, when people ask to see Paris pictures, a digital camera will passed around and the viewer gets to see Notre Dame on a 2.5 inch screen. Seeing, 0r being forced to see Paris that way has to be worse than the old slide shows.

I am foot sore, and a bit tired, but this has been a pretty smooth trip. You know what is the sorest part of me? My tummy, where my camera bangs against it. The camera I carry in front of me with the lens weighs about 4.5 lbs, and it is heavy as it bangs...I know, people are openly laughing--that should be the softest spot on me. Not true, mon ami. Abs of steel, remember? As Sancho says in Man of la Mancha, it doesn't matter if the stone hits the pitcher or the pitcher hits the stone, the result is the same. The steal of the camera against the steel of my abs is bound to cause some pain. I hope I don't hurt my camera! (-:

Bonjour! It is a rainy day and I will catch up a bit while I dry out a bit. I wonder how waterproof these cameras are?

It has been a whirlwind few days and a lot of fun. Spent the day near Notre Dame which whle I qdit is touristy, it is also beautiful. Rainy, misty day, perfect or at least pretty good for photos. The historian in me comes out in a medieval cathedral. How can something feel so solid? The flying buttresses refute its solidity, yet I swear you can feel the weight of the building. Purhaps that is the purpose of such a creation, to provide that solid-ness. I even climbed all 422 steps-that trek seemed easier 10 years ago. The building belies its age-it is what, 6-700 years old? Its wired for everthing and Bose Speakers belt out those chants. Some object to the commercial nature of the place, and it is unsettling to be able to buy a t-shirt or bumper sticker-you know, my friend went to Notre Dame and all I got was this lousy t-shirt... OK, it is not that bad but commerce is evident. But it was always like that, since it was a market site. At least they keep the animals out of square.

I ate at a cute (of course it was-they all are) place last night and had fondue-what a treat after subsisting on crossaints and tiny cups of espresso-those pesky flakes-they get all over my cameras! I would tell you the name but I had no idea where I was. I have to say that a tourist could pick their seat in almost any place. I knoz that this is not high season, but it sure seems slow. Monday is a day off after a holiday weekend here but honestly there were empty tables everywhere.

That is all for now-it is clearing out and, as I said, that Tower thingy awaits!

Hey...

I wonder how many messages I have started like that...

Hello from Paris!!! All is well, and had a good day.

First things first. It seems that I will be far less connected than I thought, which isnt always bad, but unusual for me. Unless I stumble onto a Mac store, I am computer-less and it appeqrs the promised internet is not going to work in my apt. So? Well, I promised blogs but they will be shorter-not because I dont care, but because it takes so darn long to type. Imagine typing when the W,A,M, Z, Q, and most of the punctuation marks are all in different places. I never knew that I was a touch type-er, but I guess I am. So, please, excuse the shorter posts, and excuse the typos!

No photos, either--suffice it to say that I could use Paris for fashion sense but not for computer support. I swear I am on a dial up connection. Remember as per usual-Man plans, etc etc.

But I am taking photos, some 450 already. At least 3 are probably good enough to print! Maybe a few more...Was at the Musee de Orsay today for 4 hours. Nice place, some nice pictures on the wall...it is amazing and beyond belief. I basically wandered for 13 hours-tired but a "good" tired! Different world-imagine having to find a different angle for a photo because the Eifel Tower was in the way. That hardly ever happens in Bellingham. Or Ohio. Not even in Wisconsin.

Lets see...the highlights so far, all of which will be fleshed out in the future. I was strip searched in Amsterdam, down to my skivvies-note to self: Dont leave 7 white pills in your shirt pocket so that they can fall out when you take your shirt/jacket off for the security guys. All my Zirtek rolled out of my pocket onto the table-oops. Unmarked white pills.

Room is smaller than small! I was hoping for cute small, but got uncomfortable small, Hobbitt small. Some great stories about that. I am clean and safe and warm so its ok, but small. Im in a great neighborhood, fun and pretty. Met some nice people and listened to some funny conversations which will make good posts when I get home.

Tomorrow Notre Dame, I think.

Well, this took an hour to type, so thqt is it for tonight. More soon...

Paris, One week and counting...

I should, of course, be writing grants, but why do constructive work when I can take a few minutes and write here? Someone said that in my circumstances, I should be working about 30% of the time--I promise my employers that I am working far far more than that, but I also know the following is true. Today it is sunny and it is supposed to reach 70+ degrees, so it will be by far the nicest day so far this year. My assistant is out sick today, and of course everyone believes her. I also know that I am going to be writing most if not all the weekend to get the grants done before I leave. So, to end my (endless) rationalization, I think I can take 20 minutes to do this.

One week from today I will be on a plane to Paris, which may be my adventure of the year, if you don't count every single day of my exciting life an adventure. I am having no problem separating the two. Of course, everyone has been to Paris, and I am swamped with things I should do, see, eat, etc. Some of which I will (and have) do/done. For example, where I am staying was suggested to me by a Facebook high school classmate, and it worked out great. It is in the 10th district, and in a great spot. Of course those French people call it something else, a French word for district, but trust me, it is the 10th district. Besides, I can't say much less spell the French word. Geez, the Ugly American goes to Paris. I will try not to set back Franco-American relations too much while I am there!

The apartment is pretty cool--here is the link: http://www.vacationinparis.com/apts/id_184.htm

The key to European hotels and apparently apartments is that you have to accept and embrace their smallness--it's almost a Zen type thing. If you read the site, you will see that it has about 140 sq feet of living space and splendor. I just measured my office and it is 110 square feet. But it (my office) is poorly laid out--I never know where to put the shower and the second bed. This is laid out with the precision of a ship's cabin, so it seems pretty roomy. Well, roomy might not be the word, but perhaps efficient might be a better word. It is more like a dorm room, but it is perfect for me. It says it sleeps three, but that might be a stretch. I suspect that it will only have to sleep one, and I will be fine. If someone follows me home, they can have the loft bed. It is in a neighborhood that I would not have been in had I not rented there, it is pretty convenient, and more secure than some of the less expensive places that I looked. Hey, and free WiFi--I might even post a note and a picture or two...

Ultimately, I don't plan to be there all that much. I hope to be out and about with cameras in hand taking lots of pictures and seeing parts of Paris that most tourists would not see. Yes, I will go to a museum or six, but only on really rainy days! One person told me, and I quote as best as I can, that I needed to go to the "Looov-ray" but the only really good things to see were the Mona Lisa and the statue of that guy...Which guy, I wondered? Steve? Brian? That Dave guy? He never said. He mentioned that they spent the whole afternoon, almost three hours but they could have done it (the Looov-ray) in less time had they known that all there was to see were those two things. Sigh.

I am looking forward to the trip. I want good bread, and if it results in what one of my friends once called "the dreaded bread butt" so be it. I want a real "cro-sant" (see above if you wonder where that came from) and I am guessing that I might sample French wine, but not the kind in a fancy place. I want to find a local market that sells it by the jug, and I want to go sit by the "Sane" (see above--it was a great conversation) and eat a hunk of bread, drink a bit of wine, and, of course, at least think of thee.

"Orv-wore" (see above...sigh)